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Variable clouds with scattered thunderstorms. High near 95F. Winds S at 5 to 10 mph. Chance of rain 60%..

Clear to partly cloudy. A stray shower or thunderstorm is possible. Low 73F. Winds light and variable.

Yes, I know that planting anything now seems ridiculous, but in the vegetable gardening world it’s all about the calendar. As you know, time waits for no one. Believe it or not, it’s time to plant all the crops you produced in the spring again, including beans, cucumbers, squash, and tomatoes. Yes, it’s hot, but as young plants, all of these can tolerate heat and sun but absolutely must have regular irrigation.

Timing for fall tomatoes is the most critical with the first two weeks of July being ideal in the northern half of Texas and the last two weeks of July being prime in the southern half of Texas. Anything later and you are most likely to be eating fried green tomatoes with the first frost. Tomatoes are planted from transplants (if you can find them) and if properly watered and fertilized will only grow stems, foliage, and flowers until the temperature drops below 92 degrees when they start to set fruit. The goal is to have as many flowers on your plant as possible when that time comes. The ideal transplant is 6-8 inches tall, dark green, and has 6-8 healthy leaves. Avoid those that are yellow-green, purple-green, or tough and woody. These are stunted and will not produce a bountiful harvest. It’s best to remove your spring planted tomatoes so they don’t transfer leaf blight, spider mites, virus, and white flies to your new plants.

Tomatoes require at least 8 hours of direct sunlight each day for maximum yields. Tomatoes do best in rich, loamy soils. Due to a problem with root infecting, microscopic nematodes (typical of sandy soils) or soil born diseases, it is best to avoid areas where these have been a problem or where tomatoes have grown the previous year. It is ideal to till in several inches of compost or organic matter and incorporate 2 pounds of a complete lawn fertilizer (15-5-10, etc.) per 100 square foot of bed or every 35 feet of row before planting. In small plantings incorporate 2 teaspoons per square foot or foot of row. Organic fertilizers of any kind are good for tomatoes but because they are lower in nutrients you have to use more for the same results.

Tomato transplants should be planted in well cultivated soil. Dig holes twice as wide and at least as deep as the existing pots they are growing in. Tomatoes can form roots along their stem so tall plants should have the lower several inches of their stems buried beneath the soil. By planting them deeper you produce a stronger plant with more roots. Strip any foliage off the lower stem that is to be beneath the ground and place into the hole. Gently firm the soil around them. Water thoroughly with a water-soluble plant food such as Miracle Grow at the labeled rate.

Caged tomatoes produce more high-quality fruit and have fewer disease problems. The best of all supports for tomatoes are sturdy homemade cages made from concrete reinforcing wire or cattle panels. They should be at least 60 inches high and 24 inches across. It is best to tie them to two rebar stakes (or t-posts) hammered into the ground to prevent tall plants from toppling over. Suckers do not need to be removed from the base of the plants. All foliage is necessary in Texas to keep the tomato fruit from sunburning.

Some recommended tomato varieties for Texas are Better Boy, BHN 589, Bobcat, Celebrity, Florida 91, Harris-Moran 8849, Parks Whopper, Phoenix, Red Deuce, Red Snapper, Sunbright, Tycoon, and Valley Cat. Determinate and “heat setting” types are the best choices for the fall.

— Greg Grant is the Smith County horticulturist for the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service. He is author of Texas Fruit and Vegetable Gardening, Heirloom Gardening in the South, and The Rose Rustlers. You can read his “Greg’s Ramblings” blog at arborgate.com, read his “In Greg’s Garden” in each issue of Texas Gardener magazine (texasgardener.com), and follow him on Facebook at “Greg Grant Gardens.” More science-based lawn and gardening information from the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service can be found at aggieturf.tamu.edu and aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu.

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